Bilingual Draping Skirt

DRAPING SKIRT

A.    Skirt Definition

Skirts are the fabrics that worn  by women from the waist to the legs. There is also another definition  of skirt is the lowest part of a woman's dress that length from the waist down through the hip. Skirts are a separate fashion item located at the bottom of the waist line.

B.      Types of Skirts
The basic form skirt there are 4 kinds:
1. STRAIGHT SKIRT

Straight skirt is a skirt made of straight material, fall straight from the hip to the bottom. Consists of several kinds of skirts:

a. Wrap Around Skirt
b. Gathered Skirt
c. Pleated Skirt

2. GORED SKIRT

Gored Skirt has some folds on it. Gored can be either odd or even. Various kinds of gored skirt depends on the amount of gored:

a. Even Gored Skirt: 2,4,6,8 and so on
b. Gored Skirt odd: 3,5,7,9 and so on
c. Gored Skirt with inserts. The insert called a Godet (a circular shape on the bottom of the seam of gored  ½, 1/3, ¼ circle, it could placed a pleated insertion as well (rectangular or square shape).

3. CIRCULAR SKIRT

The skirt with a circular silhouette on the seam. Consists of several kinds of skirts:

a.      The less  normal- circle skirt

b.       The normal circular skirt: a semi-circular skirt

c.       The more than normal- circle skirt

d.      The maximum circle skirt: full circular skirt

4. DRAPERY

C.     Skirt Parts

Skirt components:

1. The waist: the skirt that is located around the waist line. Can be a waistline completed with a layer by shape.

2. Body front skirt. There are dart at this part of skirt.

3. Body back skirt.

D.    Measuring Skirts

Measuring is the earliest activity to make a skirt. The result of a good skirt is depends on the size taken by someone. Some ways of measuring a good skirt :

1. Condition displays in a good position that is perpendicular to the floor.

2. Select a standing or flat floor.

3. Should that display using the shoes.

4. Blouse is should be untucked of skirt, if wearing belt, it should be removed first.

5. Place the tape around the smallest part of the waist.

6. take measured around the largest hip / hip tape.

7. Waist circumference is measured around the waist.

8. The hip height is measured at the side of the waist line to the hip line.

9. Hip circumference is measured on the periphery of the hip plus 4 cm.

10. The length of the skirt is measured in three places:

a. Front: from the center of the waist to the length of the skirt according to the design.

b. Side portion: from side waist to skirt length according to design.

c. The back: from the back waist to the skirt length according to the design.

  

1.      STRAIGHT SKIRT
A. Definition

A straight skirt is a skirt made of straight material, fall straight from the hip to the bottom.

B. Various Straight Skirts

There are 3 straight skirts:
1. Wrap around skirt

One example of a wraped skirt that can be used in everyday  is a sarong and a long fabric.

a)      The characteristics of a wrap skirt

1. The wrap skirt is generally overslag-shaped
2. No cuts or joints on the side
3. Difference between the waist and hip circumference noticed by dart
4. Dart spread on some parts that form a curved line that is: at the waist of the front skirt, the side of the body and the back of the body.

b)    Measuring the need for pattern materials / toil

1. Length of fabric: long skirt + seam + hem
Example: 75cm + 1cm + 4cm = 80 cm
2. Width of fabric: hip circumference + ½ (hip circumference)
Example: 100 + ½ (100) = 150cm

Needs the overall fabric required in making a wrap skirt  with  long skirt 70 cm is 80 cm.

c)       How to create

The steps of making a wrap skirt are
1. Cut toil according to fabric requirement
2. Mark a waist line
3. Mark a hip line
4. pin the edges of the first fabric on the hip dart

5. Pin the side of hip
6. Circle the toil around the hip, stack some parts, each side and center back
7. Difference of hip and waist size, drawn perpendicular upward
8. Coat on six curved sections, 2 on the front, 2 on the back and 2 on the side of the waist.
9. Note the width of the ears should not be too wide. If the resulting coupling is more than 4cm, then the dart is subdivided.
10. Flatten the skirt segment.
11. Move all the pattern lines: the hip line and the hem line.

2.      Straight  Gathered Skirt / Wrinkle Skirt / Dirndl

The straight gathered skirt is a skirt with small, straight folds that are full circle around the waist. The wrinkle skirt has a central point of the base of the wrinkle and the free fall based on material matching. Generally very suitable for tall and slender people with a clear waistline arrangement that will elicit its own elegance.

                                  a) The characteristics of a wrinkle skirt

                        1.      no coupons

                        2.      fitting on the waist only

                        3.      have a fabric connection on the side

                        4.      between the waistline, hip and hem line are straight line parallel

                        5.      the part of the fabric is the edge of the fabric.

                          b)      Measuring Skirts

                          Measure display and measure dress form
                       a. Measure around the waist and waist section dress form
                       b. Measure around of the models hip and the hip part of the dress form
                       c. Measure the length of the skirt

All of sizes are made table size and calculate the difference between the size of the display and the size of the dress form

No	Jenis Ukuran	Peraga	Dress Form	Selisi
1	Lingkar pinggang	70	68	+2
2	Lingkar panggul	90	92	-2
3	Panjang rok	100	100	0

c)      Measuring Material Requirement

To measure the material needs in making a wrinkle skirt is to measure the length of the skirt plus waist seam 1cm  and 3-5 cm wide seam.

Example:

a.      Measure length of fabric: (2 x length skirt) + 2 (seam + hem)
For example: (2 x 100) + 2 (2 + 4) = 216, the required length of fabric is 216cm

b.      Measure width; generally use 2 x width of material
For example: width of fabric 110, required 2 x 110 = 220cm
With a length of 50cm skirt then what is needed is 216cm
Material requirement: 2 x (skirt length + 1cm + 3-5cm)
2 x (100 + 1 + 3-5cm) = 208cm / 210cm / 212cm / 214cm / 216cm

                                                         

d)     How to Make

1. Cut toil length skirt + seam (1cm) + Hem (4cm), as much as 2x
2. Connect the edges of the fabric left and right. Rough set around the waist and hip with 2 swords
3. Fold into 4 all parts of the toil, each fold is marked.
4. The material connection portion is placed and pinned on the center front and center back parts of the hip
5. Pull up perpendicular to the waist, each of the existing line in the hip, smooth out the parting; smooth the right side of the face, the left side of the face, the right side and the left side of the back
6. Result of wrinkles pulled back upright at the waist
7. Wrinkle each of the right and left side of the waist, right and left back waist.
8. Flatten the skirt under the skirt (average water) with a ruler of the elbow. Move all the pattern lines. Give each wrinkle boundary, also mark the dress form.

3.      PLEATED SKIRT

There is a skirt that folds sequential certain size is measured systematically and regularly.

a)      The characteristics of a pleated skirt

1. On the parts that are folded around the skirt overlap each other.
2. Folds may be made in the same direction, face to face or enclosed or Accordion.
3. The folds have the same size on the outside.
4. Pleated that appears on the hip wider than the pleated look at the waist.
5. Pleated in the hip is less than pleated in the waist.

b)    How to Make

Measuring the need for a toilette is the same as a wrinkle skirt

c)     How to Make

1. mark dress form with a flat strap lay it pleated to be made
2. Toil cut + hem skirt length (1cm) + seam (4cm) as many as 2x
3. connect the toei part of the left and right fabric
4. fold into 4 sections each marked. Part of the cultivated joint is placed inside the pleated
5. The other two signs are placed no part of center front and center back hip and pin, pleated create any part of the hip. Inside  the pleated distance should be the same width, and in pleated should be the same for each pleated line
6. pull perpendicular to the waist, pleated embed respectively in the hip
7. Rearrange pleated on the waist. Flatten under the skirt, the average water. Use an elbow ruler. Move all the pattern lines. Give each pleat limits, also mark the dress form.

2. GORED SKIRT

A. Definition

The skirt skirt is a skirt made up of pieces of skirt pattern and many varieties. Gored can be either odd or even.

B. Various kinds of gored skirts

Various kinds of gored skirt depends on the amount of gored:
a. Even gored skirt: 2,4,6,8 and so on
b. Odd gored skirt: 3,5,7,9 and so on
c. Gored skirt with inserts. The insert can be a Godet (a circular shape on the bottom of the seam of gored ½, 1/3, ¼ circle, it could placed a pleated insertion as well (rectangular or square shape).

C. Parts of Gored Skirt

1. The waist
2. gored section
3. Skim under the skirt
4. Insert or godet

D. Measure gored

1. Waist circumference
2. The circumference of the hip
3. The length of the skirt

E.      Characteristic Skirts

1.      Composed of pieces that make up gored

2.      From waist to hip are fit, from hip down is free

3.      Between waistline, hip and hem are parallel lines

4.      The direction of fiber lungsi place in the middle of gored

5.      The edge of the gored line is a straight line from the point of the waist to the hip

F.      Measures Gored’s Needs
a. Measure around the waist  then for gored amount
b. Measure around the hip then for the gored amount
c. Measure hip height
d. Measure length of the gored skirt

G.     Gives Pattern Line on dress form
a. Measure from the center front of the waist each 5.5cm to the left and to the right, mark it
b. Measure from the center front part of the hip each 8cm to the left and to the right.
c. Connect the marks on the waist and hip with a flat ribbon.
d. For the next gored measured from the edge of the side of the sideward 11cm, from the edge of the hip pit at 16cm.
e. Make the back the same way.

H.    Measuring Material Requirement
a. Find the widest pattern section of each gored
b. The widest gored part is the hip line, plus 20cm for the slope of the left and right gored lines.
c. The length of the material is measured according to the length of the skirt
d. Example:
Length of fabric: length of skirt = 75cm + hem = 80cm
Width of fabric: 20cm + 2 (hill) = 24cm

I.        How to Make
1. Place the direction of the fiber lengthwise in the middle of the gored, pin it.
2. Substrate the waist and hip, align each to the right and left side
3. Put the next gored pattern in the same way. Unite each side of cutting part from the waist to the bottom of the skirt.
4. Flatten the seam under the gored skirt. Move all the pattern lines on the toil.

3.      CIRCULAR SKIRT
A. Definition
      The Circular skirt is a skirt with a circular silhouette on the hem.


B. The Kinds of Circular skirt
     Consists of several kinds of skirts:

a.      The less  normal- circle skirt: it looks like a skirt

b.       A normal circular skirt: a semi-circular skirt

c.       The more than normal- circle skirt

d.      The maximum circle skirt: full circular skirt

C. Circular skirt parts

Consists of a skirt body pattern and waiscenter backand pattern. Normal Circular skirt pattern / half circular skirt, only one part maximum circular skirt pattern / full, consists of 2 parts of the front and back of the skirt.

D. Measuring circular skirt

1. Measure around the waist  fit at the smallest waist
2. The length of the skirt is measured according to the design

1.      Less than normal- Circular skirt
Circular skirt that resembles a straight skirt

A. Characteristics

The wide of around lower skirt less than ¼ circle consists of two parts of the pattern are the front pattern and the back pattern

B. How to Make

1) Determining the needs of skirt material:
Length: skirt length according to design + 1/3 around the waist  + seam + hem
Width: width of fabric
2) The skirt can be made ½ from the front pattern and ½ back pattern
3) Place the longitudinal direction of the fiber at the center front of the skirt .
4) Pin the front, determine the 3cm grain of center front, scissors towards the waist line.
5) Lower the grain slightly. Resize 3cm from the first embed, scissor and lower the grain slightly. Trim the sides.
6) Move all the pattern lines.

C. Adjustment

Performed on the side of the side of the waist,
Measure the gap of the waist, then divide by 4
Example: 70-66 = 4cm
 4cm: 4 = 1cm is added to each of the waist 1 cm each.

2.      Normal Circle Skirt
A circular skirt that resembles a semicircle.

A. Characteristics

1) Consists of one part of the skirt body.
2) There is a hemisphere, the body center front.
3) The direction of the fibers extending the fabric falls there is the back center line.
4) The direction of the fiber width of the fabric lies in the center front section.

B. Calculating Material Requirement / toil

1) Length: (2x long skirt) + (1/2 around the waist) + (2 x seam) + (2 x hem)
2) Width: adjustable length.

C. How to Make

1) Skirts can be made ½ of the front pattern and ½ rear pattern
2) Place the direction of the fibers widened in the center front of the skirt
3) pin the front, specify a grain of approximately 3cm from center front, scissors towards the waist line.
4) Lower the grain slightly. Pin back approximately 3cm from first embed, lower the grain slightly. Pin back on the side, lower the grain slightly.
5) Pin back approximately 3cm from the pin side line, lower the grain slightly. pin back approximately 3cm lower the garment slightly.
6) The direction of the longitudinal fibers ends in the center front line. Move all the pattern lines.

D. Adjustment

1) Conducted on the waist side seam
2) Measure the difference of waist circle then divided by 4
3) Example: 70 - 66 = 4cm, 4cm: 4 = 1cm, add on waist each 1cm.

3.      More Than Normal Circle Skirt

A development from normal circular skirts. But the width of the hem is more than the normal circular skirt and fewer than the maximum circular skirt.

A.    Characteristics

1. Consists of 2 parts of body skirt, front and back.
2. fissure on the side
3. The direction of the long wise grain of the fabric, fall on the side line
4. The direction of the welded fiber (cross wise grain) lies within the center front section.

B. How to Make

1. Calculating material / toil
The required toilers are 2 pieces of size
Length: (2 x long skirt) + (½ around the waist ) + (2 x seam) + (2 x hem)
Width of fabric according to length of skirt.
2. Start making from the side of the skirt, place the direction of the longitudinal fibers on the side of the skirt
3. Measure from under the skirt is the length of skirt that is needed, the residue of the fabric is directed upwards.
4. Make waves, by embedding at the waist, then cut, make grain, stitch about 5 cm from the side, scissor to waist, lower the grain
5. Lay about 5 cm from the second point, scissor to waist, lower the grain
6. Lay about 5 cm from point 2, scissor to waist, lower the grain
7. Do it until ends at the side, the longitudinal direction of the fiber is on the side. Move all the pattern lines.

C. Adjustment

Performed on the side of the side of the waist
Measure the gap of the waist, then divide by 4
Example: 70-66 = 4cm
4cm divided by 4 = 1cm
Add on waist each 1cm

4.      Maximum Circular Skirt

A circular skirt that resembles a full circular shape.

A. Characteristics

1. Consists of 2 parts of body skirt, body front and body back.
2. fissure on the side. The longitudinal fiber direction falls on the side line. The direction of the widens fiber the fabric places in the center front

B. How to Make

How to make the same as in a circular skirt is more than normal

C.  Adjustment

1. Conducted on the seam of the waist side,
2. Measure the gap of the waist, then divided by 4,
For example: 70-66 = 4cm, 4cm divided by 4 = 1 cm, add on waist each 1cm.

4. DRAPER SKIRT / DRAPERY

A. Definition

Drapery skirt is a skirt that has a decorative fabric that fall on the waist / hip.

B.  The Kinds of Drapery

1. Drapery on the sides between waist and hip.
2. Drapery on the front or back of the skirt
3. Drapery on the front of skirt, vertical from waist to hem under skirt.

C. Drapery Parts

1. Folded sections
2. Drapery section

D.  Measuring Drapery

The characteristic of drapery is fall, the fabric used for drapery is an oblique fabric. To calculate material requirement that is by folding fabric with 45 ° angle then drapery requirement counted 2x fall of drapery.

E. How to Make

1. Skirt with asymmetrical drapery on the front. Place the toil on the front of the skirt with the direction of the longitudinal fibers.
2. Create a small cutout at the waist
3. Lower the grain on the part dart.

                          How to make a drapery skirt on the side of the pelvis